Achieving an optimal skin balance can be somewhat tricky in this day and age. With so many products on the market that advertise a smooth and refined skins surface, there is ample opportunity and desire to over-exfoliate the skin and remove a layer or two too much. Besides the undernourishment of the skin, I find one of the most common reasons for acne breakouts and skin irritation is either over-exfoliation or using too many fruits acids (aka Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids and Beta-hydroxy-Acids).
This last week alone I have made that connection for a few of my clients who seemed to be doing everything right, using all the right products, but it wasn't until we looked at the frequency that they were using these products that set off a red flag.
The frequency will be different for everyone depending on each skin type and condition, but as a safe general rule of thumb, one should look at exfoliating their skin only once a week. This would be with a physical exfoliator such as the Skin Matrix AHA Exfoliator or an enzyme mask such as the Osmosis Polish. Of course, if your skin tolerates more exfoliation then this too is absolutely fine, as long as your skin is not giving you signals that you are going overboard.
If you use fruit acid skin preps such as Alpha-H Liquid Gold or Skin Matrix Refine + Smooth, a safe starting point is 2 times a week of an evening after cleansing. Then increase the frequency until your skin reaches its bliss point - which means fabulous skin smoothness - with no pesky breakouts. Once your skin reaches this bliss point you will no longer wake up to a few little bumps that have appeared overnight out of nowhere. Your skin's barrier is priority number 1. It likes to be nourished and exfoliated gently and kindly, and at its own pace.
Here are some popular examples of exfoliation routines my clients follow:
Normal to Dry Skin Type:
Refine + Smooth Lactic Liquid – we love lactic acid as it hydrates whilst smoothing gently the skins surface. Mandelic acid brightens and lightens and is very popular especially in the Australian sun drenched environment. Use like you would a toner, 1-2 times a week after cleansing of night. Some clients successfully use every night, but I suggest to slowly increase usage and pull back if the skin becomes sensitized.
Osmosis Polish Or Societe Super Fruit Enzymes:
Enzymes are a gentle method of exfoliating the skin. They digest keratin (skin cells) and do so without being abrasive. They smooth fine lines and help with an even skin tone. Use once a week. A great routine my clients follow is to make Sunday night treatment night. Cleanse, exfoliate and apply an overnight mask to get your skin ready for a new week.
Normal to Oily Skin Type:
Use Refine + Smooth Liquid or if you have breakouts present your skin may prefer the Alpha-H Liquid Gold. Liquid gold is a glycolic acid liquid that you apply like a toner after cleansing 1-2 times a week. Glycolic Acid smooths the skin like Lactic acid but can be a little more drying than Lactic Acid.
Once a week do an exfoliating scrub like the Skin Matrix AHA Exfoliating Scrub to whisk away dead skin cells. If you are a little sensitive you can apply like a make and remove after 5 minutes. The Cosmedix Glow Mask is a 2 in 1 exfoliator and mask. This brightening mask helps improve the appearance of discoloration and uneven skin tone by exfoliating away dead surface skin with bamboo stem extracts. The gentle exfoliation allows for optimal absorption of brightening ingredients, which help improve skin texture and tone to reveal a smoother, brighter and more luminous-looking complexion.
Thickened/Oily Skin with Breakouts
The Cosmedix Purity Balance is popular for controlling breakouts and refining the skins surface. Eliminate any pore-clogging oil and residual impurities after a cleanse with our bestselling exfoliating toner that keeps your skin clean and clear with salicylic and lactic acids. Purity Balance helps to restore balance for a complexion that radiates beauty, not shine. Start off using once a day and increase to twice daily if the skin permits after 2 weeks. Reduce usage at any sign of skin sensitivities.
Once a week oily skins love the effects of the Cosmedix Clear Mask. Clear works to draw out pore-clogging impurities and helps balance oil production with a combination of kaolin clay, salicylic acid and sulfur. Niacinamide helps improve skin's texture, while soothing botanicals help reduce the appearance of redness. Go ahead, pamper yourself.
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